Looking around at what’s been on offer at the cinema for these past couple of months, it seems that the only way to succeed is to be relevant. Everything has to be about something; I don’t mean in any sub textual sense because all films should do that, but in the sense that unless they’re about superheroes every film has to make a statement. Whether it’s Darkest Hour, or Get Out, or Dunkirk, or even Paddington 2, every film has to be accompanied by the great clunking fist of significance.
That’s one of the reasons Phantom Thread is such a triumph. It’s only significance is an
attempt to reclaim classic storytelling in a film that celebrates classic
Hollywood narrative. The highest compliment I can think of for this film is
that it could have been made by Hitchcock in the mid-20th century rather than
Paul Thomas Anderson in the first quarter of the 21st century.
There is more than a touch of Hitchcock in this
brooding drama about high fashion couturier Reynolds Woodcock (Daniel Day Lewis)
who, even at the moment of his greatest success, frets over his failures and
his impending mortality. His sister Cyril (Lesley Manville) packs him off to
their country retreat to recharge his batteries. On the way he stops at a
country hotel where he is served by Alma (Vicky Krieps), a waitress to whom he
is strangely attracted.
He and Alma begin a curiously co-dependent
relationship. She becomes his muse, but she is stronger-willed than his usual
type. Protected by Cyril, who possibly sees that Alma is good for her brother,
she attempts to exert some control over his life with unfortunate consequences.
To go back to my original point, Phantom Thread is not without its subtext.
It’s a film about need and desire, as well as obsession and control. In many
ways it’s a melancholy ode to the human condition. However, more than all of
this, Phantom Thread seems to be a
celebration of classic filmmaking.
There is more than a touch of Hitchcock about this
film. The superb Lesley Manville as Cyril echoes the sinister Mrs Danvers in Rebecca (1940) but with a greater threat
of devastating violence. The relationship between Reynolds and Alma meanwhile echoes
that between Scottie and Madeleine in Vertigo
(1958), a film with which Phantom Thread
has much in common.
Like Hitchcock there is an enormous amount of
restraint in this film. The obsessive Woodcock is apparently modelled on the
Spanish couturier Balenciaga; Day Lewis apparently learned how to make a Balenciaga
dress in preparation for the role. Unusually for a film set in the world of
couture it takes a muted approach to its subject, especially when compared to
something like Altman’s Pret-a-Porter
(1994).
This is a film of superbly composed shots from Anderson,
acting here as his own uncredited cinematographer, and editor Dylan Tichenor’s
cutting is as smooth and seamless as one of Woodcock’s creations. The colour palette
from production designer Mark Tildesley and the sound design from Christopher Scarabrioso
are also crucial to the story. Phantom
Thread is a celebration of the film maker’s art and from Anderson, who also
wrote it, we get a genuine bespoke piece of cinema.
None of this would work however without some extraordinary
performances. Lesley Manville quietly steals every scene she is in as the
protective Cyril, while Day Lewis drifts through the film almost in a fugue
state. His Reynolds Woodcock is in the world but not of the world as he tries to
reconcile his obsession with his creativity. Newcomer Vicky Krieps may be the
pick of the bunch; it would be easy to play this as a blushing ingenue, but her
Alma has an inner steel. She and Woodcock are more alike than either of them
might care to admit and Anderson does an excellent job of balancing the narrative
between them.
In the end Phantom
Thread is a film that haunts you; just as Woodcock is himself ‘haunted’. It
is almost impossible to dismiss, scenes and moments creep back into the memory
unbidden and, like any great piece of art, it forces you to think about it and
reconsider it long after it has finished.
On Oscar nomination day last month there was
something of a surprise when this film came away with six nominations. I think
it deserves every one of them and the only thing that surprised me was that
there weren’t more. I doubt you’ll see many films this year better than Phantom Thread.
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